About Denis…
Hi, Denis here… Over the last 20 years I worked on Citroen automobiles performing small repairs through full restorations. The models I primarily worked on were D, Traction Avant, 2CV, GS, SM and the CX.
Cars that I have restored and done extensive work on have participated in meets such as: Meadow Brook Hall, Eastern National AACA Meet, Carlisle Import/Kit Show, and the Citroen Rendezvous. Some of my former personal cars are also on display at the Lane Motor Museum in Nashville. Mentioning this is not to brag, but just to show you that I do know a few things about these cars, and will try to give you good content and answer your questions.
Although retired from working on the cars, I have remained active with the Citroen Club of North America as the club’s Secretary/Treasurer. I still work on my own collection of Citroens and with this blog, would like to share some of my repair tips and techniques with you.
If you have any questions or comments on such matters just send them my way. I can assure you that if I don’t have the answer for one of your questions I will find out from one of the many contacts that I have in the Citroen world and get back to you.
about 2 years ago
Hey there Denis… I can see by the posts you are creating that this will be invaluable resource for anyone who owns or wants to own a Citroen. Perhaps you would create us an “Archive”, so we can go see the articles in the order you intend us to read them?
What a great site, I can’t wait to watch it unfold.
about 2 years ago
Denis
My 2cv has become very hard to start when it is hot.
I recently replaced the points but on a second check
the gap and static timing seemed to be correct.
Can you suggest what I could look at?
Thanks
Rollett
about 1 year ago
Denis,
I dropped a check in the mail a while back asking for club membership and back issues of the club news letter. I have a ‘70 DS21 manual, frame stored about 30 years in a garage for which I would like to find a new home. I also have a ‘70 DS 21 Citromatic Pallas under restoration and a ‘71 DS 21 Citromatic Pallas parts car.
I would like a back copy of the news letter so that I may run an add in time for the next issue. I also have several articles that you might be interested in for future publication.
Best regards,
Dave
about 1 year ago
Dear Rol,
Sorry for delay in getting back to you. Here is what I know
and what people who work on the cars today are finding.
1. The general quality of coils available for the cars is a bit
questionable. Some work fine, others act up when the weather
is hot. Make sure you check to see that you have a spark when
the car seems to be acting up with hot weather.
2. I know this may not apply but check to make sure that ignition
switch is in good shape. They can act up with heat.
3. The installation of the 123 coil can help some of this. They are
available in this country from: French Parts Service at:
http://www.2cvsource.com
4. The last thing I have to say is that new reformulated gasoline
with lots of ethanol in it causes old cars with carburetors to have
trouble starting in hot weather because it evaporates so quickly
It is best suited for a fuel injected engine were it is under a constant pressure, and not a system like the 2CV with a very long intake manifold were it can be subject to vapor lock with hot weather.
Hope that was of some help.
Denis
about 1 year ago
Denis,
Hi! Hope this finds you well. Celeste, my 2CV you restored about a dozen years ago, is still going strong. Recently, though, I’ve experienced a problem and ask your expert opinion. When going through a hard left or right turn, the oil pressure light comes on; it goes off as soon as I’m out of the turn. The sump is full of Castrol 20W50, which I’ve always used. My thought is that one of two things is wrong. First, the oil pressure sending unit may be bad; worst case, the oil pump is about to go. What do you think?
Thanks,
Ed Moore
about 1 year ago
Hello Denis,
A friend of mine has a Citroen Sm. The interior and its black leather seats are in really bad shape. So he needs to make new black leather seats. However, the problem is that the upholstery of the doors were missing since he bought it and we do not know if the original upholstery of the doors were made of black plastic or black leather.
Could you tell me that?
Regards Triphon.
about 1 year ago
Dear Ed, Sorry for the delay with getting back to you, but I have been busy getting the club site going at: http://citbitz.com
To answer your question the two things that come to mind are:
1. Use a 10W40 oil in the colder weather such as we are having. I know that the 20W50 oil is speced everywhere for the 2CV but it does get a little thick for use in really cold winter weather.
2. The other thing that comes to mind that I have seen happen and that is to check the connections on the sending wire for the oil pressure sending unit. As with most all indicator lights on Citroens it operates by completing the ground in the circuit to make the dash indicator light come on. If there is a worn spot on the insulation somewhere in this wire between the pressure unit and where it is attached to the backside of the light unit in the dash, it might be rubbing against something metal as the car goes around the corner and complete the circuit and cause the light to come on.
Hope that helps Ed, and I hope you are enjoying your car.
Denis
about 1 year ago
Dear Triphon,
The door panels in the SM are completely made from high grade leather. That goes for the side panels in the rear seats also.
The interiors in the SMs were built to a very high standard, and finding high quality leather with the proper embossed grain can be a problem. Best of luck.
Denis
about 1 year ago
I have a citroen xantia 2.0 exclusive 2008 model that i bought it in iran how can i protect the hydraulic system to donot start leaking.
Thanks Denis
about 11 months ago
Hi – Excellent idea starting this website. Just a comment on 2CV6 starting difficulty when it is hot. I own a 1988 2CV6 and experienced the same problem in the beginning until I understood that there is a way to do it well. Avoid pumping the accelerator. I have also installed a basic transistor-assisted electronic ignition ($50 kit from Dick Smith) and the points have not been changed for several years after that. It starts first time, cold or hot.
1. Starting cold engine, I never use the choke or press the accelerator until after the engine fires. Then I slowly push the accelerator down and pull the choke out just enough to keep the engine idling. Then I take my foot off the accelerator and let the choke do its work until the engine is warm enough for me to push the choke back fully.
2. When starting hot engine, I press the accelerator fully to the floor (but never pump it) before starting the engine and it fires after a couple of seconds. Then I ease off the accelerator.
Hope it helps.