Just had a question from a gentleman who is traveling to the Citroën Rendezvous in Saratoga Springs, NY on Father’s Day weekend. He wanted a list of everything he should do to make his Citroën 2CV safe for the trip. This is my advise… a list of thing to check and do.

Electrical:

• check all lights and signals and make sure they all work

• head lights, hi and low beam

• signals

• brake lights

• flashers (if you have them)

• marker and plate lights

• check wipers

• check horn

Tires:

• check for wear

• check pressure (also spare)

Suspension:

• lubricate knife edges

• jack up front of car

• grab front wheels at 9 and 3 positions and check for play (tie rod and steering rack wear)

• grab front wheels at 12 and 6 position and check for play (king pin wear)

• jack up rear of car and turn rear wheels and check for any strange noises (wheel bearings and brake drag)

Body:

• check that all body panels and make sure that all fasteners securing them are tight

• make sure top is secure when it is attached at windshield

• check tightness of wheel lugs (check owners manual for torque)

Under the hood:

• check engine oil level

• check transmission oil level (should be right up to side fill plug)

• check air cleaner (make sure all is snug secure)

• check the belt for wear and tightness

• check battery connections and make sure posts are clean

• check brake pad thickness and parking brake adjustment

• check all cables and linkages for clearance and wear

• check to make sure there is good clearance between the fuel line and the exhaust pipe and manifold. (this can often be very close and even dangerous.)

• make sure hood secondary latch lines up and hood completely closes

• check under car for exhaust leaks with the engine running

Pack the following tools and parts:

• small socket or wrench set containing 8mm to 21mm  sizes

• screw drivers both Philips and straight blade

• wire connectors and crimper

• some extra wire

• electrical tester

• electrical tape and duct tape

• extra fan belt.

• proper brake fluid for vintage of car ie: brake fluid or green fluid

• 2 spark plugs and a set of wires

• set of points and condenser (unless you have a 123 ignition installed n the car)

• spare light bulbs for every light on the car

• jack,

• lug wrench,

• flashlight

• nitrile  or vinyl gloves and cheap pair of coveralls.

That should probably do it without bringing the kitchen sink. Hope this helps.

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What type of brake fluid should I use in my Citroën 2CV ?

This question recently was sent in and here is my answer:

1. If you have a pre 1980s Citroën 2CV (that is a Citroën 2CV with four wheel drum brakes), then you want to use a good quality DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid . My own personal choice is a DOT 4 product made by Castrol called Castrol LMA . (the LMA stands for low moisture absorbing ). As we all know, this is a good quality for brake fluid to have since it is by nature hygroscopic, or has a tendency to absorb moisture.
   Regardless, the other bit of info I can’t stress enough is to completely drain and flush out the system at least every 2 years in your Citroën 2CV . More problems and troubles with brakes seem to be caused by neglecting to do this fairly simple procedure, and moisture builds up in the system and corrosion occurs.
2. OK, second answer to the question: If you have a Citroën 2CV that is later then this date or has disc brakes on the front to be more accurate, then you want to be using LHM fluid . Yes, the same green stuff that you put in the hydraulic suspension cars of the same period.
   Here again you want to practice my advice of changing the fluid at least every two years. Changing the fluid is such an inexpensive form of maintenance, next to rebuilding or changing out brake parts. The more I find, as these Citroëns get older and enter collector status, people have a tendency to use them less and less, and this is where periodic maintenance becomes even more important.

So take care of those Citroën 2CVs because they just don’t make them anymore!

Later,

Denis

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Do you want to know what the point gap is on your Citroen 2 CV ?

Here recently, someone wrote in and asked me what the point gap was on their 1975 Citroen 2 CV . The best way I figured to answer this would be to list the Ignition System Specs for the 2 CV-6 engines from 1970 thru 1990 . These have the engine code: AO6/634/5

• Ignition Coil Make: Ducellier

• IgnitionCoil Type: 4009

• Ignition Coil Supply Voltage: + with Balast resistor: 11,0

• Primary Resistance: Ohm: 3,4-3,8

• Firing Order: 1-2

• Distributor (ECM) Make: Ducellier

• Distributor (ECM) No: 605774

• Contact Breaker gap/trigger air gap mm: 0.4

• Dwell Angle: (%): 106-112 (60)

Hope that answers the question. I do have to say that because it is fairly hard to get at the points, ie: removing the fan blade, you might want to seriously consider going to a 123 Ignition System . It is a fantastic distributor for classic Citroëns . It will give you a much more accurate and powerful spark and you won’t have to mess with it ever again.

The 123 Systems are distributed here in the states by Erik deWidt and you can contact Erik at erikdewidt@aol.com in the eastern part of the country and in the west at French Parts Service at: http://www.2cvsource.com

Take care of those little engines in your Citroen 2CV and they will take care of you.

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I recently got asked a question here about Citroen 2CV ’s
and decided to post on it, as many people have asked about
this over the years.

"My 2cv has become very hard to start when it is hot.
I recently replaced the points but on a second check
the gap and static timing seemed to be correct.
Can you suggest what I could look at?"

Here is what I know and what people who work on the cars
today are finding.

1. The general quality of coils available for the cars is a bit
questionable. Some work fine, others act up when they get
hot. Make sure you check to see that you have a spark when
the car seems to be acting up when hot.

2. I know this may not apply but check to make sure that ignition
switch is in good shape. They can act up with heat.

3. The installation of the 123 coil can help some of this. They are
available in this country from: French Parts Service at:
http://www.2cvsource.com

4. The last thing I have to say is that new reformulated gasoline
with lots of ethanol in it causes old cars with carburetors to have
trouble starting when they are hot because it evaporates so quickly.
It is best suited for a fuel injected engine were it is under a
constant pressure, and not a system like the 2CV with a very
long intake manifold were it can be subject to vapor lock with
hot weather or when the engine gets hot.

Hope that was of some help.

Denis

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Did you know… that after December 1968 Citroën modified the suspension units on the “AK” Model, including the 2CV. Following is the service bulletin update:

SUSPENSION UNITS

The front suspension spring AM-431-1 is replaced by the spring AM-431-1a.

Description; Wire Diameter 17.5 mm (.689″)

Free Height 192 mm (7.56″)

Coils circling to the left.

The front tie-rod of the suspension unit AU-434-91 is replaced by the tie-rod AM-434-91.

Length: 625.8 mm (24.638″)

The rear tie-rod of the suspension unit AM-434-91 is replaced by the tie-rod AW-434-92

Length: 607.5 mm (23.917″)

The front rubber stop A-435-76 of the suspension unit is replaced by the stop AK-435-76.

The important thing to remember is:

It is possible to mount the new suspension units or the assembly of all these new parts on earlier models.

The two suspension units of a car should be strictly identical. It is indispensable that the modification must be made simultaneously on the right and left suspension units.

The rubber buffers of the front suspension system should be adjusted to obtain a clearance of 2 mm. (.080″) between the rubber stop and the stop on the suspension arm.

OK, hope this helps and let me know if you have any more questions by asking in the comments box below.

Later,

Denis

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